When I talk about a dish being a carbonara, I mean the method of creating a creamy pasta sauce with eggs that are cooked just enough to emulsify and thicken but not so much as to become scrambled or solid. I prefer carbonara sauces made without pancetta/guanciale, as I find the classic version of the dish quite heavy, so instead I like to use vegetables. Artichokes, peas, broad beans and braised greens all make delicious carbonaras, as do courgettes.
This courgette carbonara is lifted by a hefty hit of lemon (both zest and juice), which cuts through the richness of the eggs beautifully. Choose small, young courgettes: their flavour is superior and they have a lower water content. I also use pecorino sardo, which has both a lemony flavour and nutty sweetness that work perfectly here. If you can’t find it, use Parmesan or a mix of pecorino romano and Parmesan.
I often make the sautéed courgettes the night before and keep them in the fridge. I use smooth penne, but spaghetti or rigatoni also work.
4tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve
1 garlic clove, bashed
2 medium or 3 small courgettes, sliced in half lengthways, then into half moons
180g pasta of your choice
1 egg, plus 2 egg yolks
4tbsp grated pecorino (or Parmesan), plus extra to serve
zest 1 small lemon and juice 1/2 small lemon
basil leaves, to serve
Heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium-low heat, then fry the garlic clove until it just begins to sizzle and smell good. Add the courgette slices and sauté, stirring regularly, until they are golden all over, beginning to break down and become almost jammy. Season with salt and set aside (or leave to cool, then keep in the fridge for future use).
Cook the pasta to packet instructions in a large pan of salted boiling water until al dente.
Meanwhile, mix the egg, yolks, cheese and lemon zest and juice into the courgette mixture and begin to heat very gently, stirring all the time. With a slotted spoon, scoop the pasta into the courgette pan with a splash or two of the cooking water. Stir and toss over a low heat until the sauce is creamy and coats the pasta. Taste for seasoning, add a few basil leaves, some extra Parmesan and a drizzle of olive oil, then serve immediately.
Make as for lemon and courgette carbonara, but in place of the courgettes, use 4-5 prepared, sliced artichoke hearts and finish with fresh chopped mint rather than basil.
(Hardie Grant, £28)
Beyond the buzz of the coast, cook and author of For the Love of Lemons Letitia Clarke explores the island’s quiet interior, where slow hospitality and a deep-rooted sense of place offer a richer way to eat, stay, and travel
